WOMEN'S CLOTHING
There
were many different styles popular in the 18th Century, but all the
styles had a few basics in common. Low scooped or squared off necks, sleeves
just past the elbow, waists emphasized, the layered look, and very full
skirts were universal traits of 18th Century women's dress. Although a few
children's garments fastened in the back,women's clothing usually fastened in
the front. The layers of clothing included a shift, petticoats, a jacket bodice
or overgown, and bonnets and caps. Kerchiefs, shawls,
and neckerchiefs (sometimes called "fichus" by the
fashion elegants of the period) were optional, and aprons always topped
work dresses. Farm wear for New England women was comfortable and nonre-stricting.
A simple drawstring shift, a full skirt ending above the an-kles, a
jacket bodice with rolled up sleeves and laced in front, a cap and an apron
were the basic articles of clothing. Women and girls often went barefoot in the
house and yard. Rough leather shoes were worn when protection from cold or
terrain was needed. Scarlet cloaks (sometimes called cardinals) were most often
worn by farm and mer-chant women. These cloaks, commonly referred
to as "red riding hoods" (which will of course incur
quite a bit of teasing from mod-ern-day wits), were regarded as country
middle-lower class wear by the elegants of Boston. In her diary Anna Green
Winslow, a twelve-year-old school girl just becoming aware of fashion, is
horrified at the thought of wearing her red cloak in the streets of Boston. She
fears it will identify her as a market woman or, as the British soldiers called
country folk, a country pumpkin. A town woman would usually wear a fancier gown
over a shift and petticoats. A bonnet or a straw hat worn over a mobcap might
be added. Often a fashionable pelisse or capuchin, hip-length capes with friar-like
hoods, would be worn with the dress. These capes might be blue, grey, scarlet,
or green in color and made of silk or wool.
THE
ESSENTIAL UNDERGARMENT: THE SHIFT
The
chief woman's undergarment for any type of dress was the shift
(called "chemise" by elegant
Bostonians). This was a rather shapeless slip-with-sleeves. Usually it ended
around the knees, looking much like a long peasant blouse. A low scooped neck
and sleeves ending below the elbows are important. The neck edge and the sleeve
edges often showed beneath the overdress, so the style and the fabric of the
shift varied accordingly. Please see the diagrams and note the variations.
The best way to make the shift is as the 18th Century woman
made hers: no pattern. This shift not only looks accurate, but is
easy once the concept of 18th Century clothing construction is understood. Use
drawstrings. Elastic had not been developed yet. The shift was the major
undergarment for an 18th Century woman. It can be made
relatively easily with about 3V6 yards fabric and a yardstick.
The length of fabric for the body is twice the distance be-tween your shoulder
and your knees (average is 72"). The sleeve length is the distance from
your top shoulder to 4" below your elbow. Cut a squarish neck
hole, about 10" wide and 10" long (again, aver-age size). Mark off
with ruler 8" on each side of center of the shift body. The
sleeve (widest end) is to be attached here, using tiny pleats to fit.
After both sleeves are attached, fold shift so that you can sew in a
continuous seam the length of the sleeve, underarm, and shift sides. To finish
neck: First, try the garment on. If the neck if far too big, fold edge
over and sew: insert drawstring and pull to adjust. If the neck is just a
little too big, take in a few tucks here and there, creating a pretty ruffled
effect. Lace, ruffling, etc. can be added to dress the shift up.
To
finish the sleeves: Add either cuffs, or drawstrings, or ruffles, all
ending just below the elbow.
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